Portugal's quietly brilliant wines
Portugal grows an extraordinary range of native grape varieties, many found almost nowhere else. The country is famous for port and the young, refreshing wines of the north, but you don't need to travel far from Lisbon to explore distinct and rewarding wine regions.
Within an hour or two of the capital you'll find vineyards on sandy Atlantic coastlines, rolling hills and vast plains studded with cork oaks. Many estates welcome visitors for tastings, often with food, though booking ahead is usually wise.
The Setúbal Peninsula
Just across the river to the south, the Setúbal Peninsula is the easiest wine trip from Lisbon. It is best known for its fortified Moscatel, a sweet amber wine that pairs beautifully with pastries and cheese. The area also produces fresh whites and fruity reds.
Combine a tasting with time in the Arrábida hills, where limestone cliffs drop to sheltered turquoise beaches, and a seafood lunch in the fishing port of Setúbal, which is particularly well known for fried cuttlefish.
The Alentejo
Further east, the Alentejo is Portugal's great southern plain, a land of whitewashed villages, olive groves, cork forests and wide skies. Its wines tend to be warm and generous, and some producers still use traditional clay amphorae to ferment wine, a technique with roots stretching back to Roman times.
The historic city of Évora makes a good base, with a Roman temple and a compact walled centre. The region's food is rich and rustic, with pork, bread-based dishes, sheep's cheese and plenty of olive oil.
Closer to the coast
To the west, near Sintra, small vineyards grow on sand dunes along the Atlantic. The old vines here survived the pests that devastated Europe's vineyards in the nineteenth century because the insects couldn't thrive in sandy soil. The wines are rare and distinctive, and a visit fits neatly into a day exploring Sintra and the coast.
North of Lisbon, the Lisboa wine region is a large, varied area producing everything from easy-drinking everyday wines to serious bottles, often at very friendly prices.
If you'd rather not leave the city, Lisbon itself is a great place to learn about Portuguese wine. Wine bars across the centre pour a wide selection by the glass from all over the country, often alongside cheese, cured meats and tinned fish. Staff are usually happy to suggest grapes and regions you might not know, and a tasting flight is a good way to discover what you like before heading out to the vineyards. Many specialist shops also stock bottles from small producers that are hard to find abroad, and some can advise on packing them for the flight home.
Good to know
- Book tastings in advance, especially at weekends and during the harvest.
- Choose a tour or designated driver; rental cars give flexibility, but drink-driving limits are strict.
- Wine bottles are best packed in a checked bag, wrapped well in clothing.