A capital with its own vineyards
Most visitors come to Vienna for palaces, art and music, and are surprised to learn that the city has hundreds of hectares of vineyards within its limits. They cover the hills on the northern and southwestern edges and along the Danube, and they produce wines that are taken seriously by connoisseurs.
The signature wine is Gemischter Satz, a field blend made from several grape varieties grown and harvested together in the same vineyard. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are also widely grown, along with some reds.
What is a heuriger?
A heuriger is a wine tavern, traditionally run by a winemaker serving their own new wine. The word refers to this year's wine, and the custom of selling it directly to customers goes back centuries. Genuine family-run taverns typically open for a few weeks at a time on a rotating basis, signalled by a bunch of pine branches hung over the door.
Inside, the atmosphere is relaxed and rustic: wooden benches, leafy gardens, a buffet of cold and warm dishes, and wine served by the quarter litre in simple glasses. Some places have musicians playing traditional Viennese songs.
What to eat and drink
The food is hearty and simple. Expect roast pork, cured meats, cheeses, spreads such as a spicy paprika cheese, pickles, potato salad and dark bread. You usually pick from a counter and pay for food separately from wine.
Many people order a gespritzter, wine mixed with sparkling water, which is refreshing on a warm afternoon and helps you pace yourself. In autumn, look for sturm, partly fermented cloudy grape juice that is sweet, fizzy and only available for a few weeks.
Making a day of it
The wine villages on the city's edge are reachable by tram and bus from the centre. A lovely option is to walk through the vineyards on marked trails, stop at a tavern for lunch and then continue to another for the evening. The views over the city and the Danube are superb, particularly at sunset. Spring, late summer and the harvest season are especially atmospheric.
Winter visitors need not miss out. While many seasonal taverns close in the colder months, some larger establishments stay open year-round, and the city's wine bars offer a good selection of local wines by the glass. Vienna also has a fine tradition of wine shops where you can pick up a bottle of Gemischter Satz to take home. Wrapped carefully in clothing, a bottle or two travels well in a checked bag, and opening one later is a pleasant way to bring back memories of an evening among the vines above the city.
Good to know
- Check which family taverns are open; many publish rotating opening calendars.
- Wear comfortable shoes for vineyard trails, which can be steep.
- Use public transport to get there and back; trams and buses run to the main wine villages.