A capital of wine
It surprises many visitors that Vienna has its own significant wine-growing area within the city limits. Vineyards cover the hillsides on the north-western and southern edges, and local winemakers produce whites in particular, including Grüner Veltliner and a traditional field blend called Gemischter Satz, made from several grape varieties planted together.
The best way to taste it is at a Heuriger, a wine tavern traditionally run by the winemaker, serving their own recent vintage.
How a Heuriger works
Traditional taverns signal that they are open by hanging a bundle of pine branches above the door. Many open only for certain weeks of the year, in rotation, while others operate year-round. Inside or in the garden, you sit at long wooden tables, order wine by the quarter litre, and often help yourself from a buffet of cold meats, cheeses, spreads, pickles and roast pork.
The atmosphere is informal and convivial. In some taverns, musicians play traditional Viennese songs on violin and accordion, and guests join in.
Prices are usually moderate, and you pay at the buffet counter for food and at the table for wine. Some taverns also serve warm dishes, but the cold buffet is the classic experience.
Where to go
The villages of Grinzing, Nussdorf, Sievering and Neustift am Walde in the north-west are the best-known Heuriger areas, reached by tram or bus from the centre. Grinzing is the most famous and can be busy with tour groups, so some visitors prefer the quieter villages nearby.
On the other side of the Danube, Stammersdorf has a more local character and plenty of taverns along its main street.
Most areas are reached in under an hour by public transport, and the trams make it easy to hop between villages in a single evening.
Walk among the vines
Combine your visit with a walk through the vineyards. Paths climb from the villages towards the Kahlenberg and Nussberg hills, with views over the city and the Danube. Around harvest time, typically late summer and autumn, Vienna hosts a popular wine hiking day when routes are lined with stands.
In autumn you may also find Sturm, a cloudy, partially fermented young wine that is sweet, fizzy and deceptively strong. Enjoy it in moderation.
Good to know
- Look for pine branches over the door to find open taverns.
- Order a Gespritzter, wine with sparkling water, for a lighter drink.
- Take public transport; Heuriger evenings and driving do not mix.