More than a place for coffee
Vienna's traditional coffee houses are so central to the city's identity that the culture around them has been recognised as part of Austria's intangible heritage. They are places to read the newspaper, write, meet friends, argue about politics or simply watch the world for an hour or two over a single cup.
The classic interior is instantly recognisable: marble-topped tables, bentwood chairs, upholstered booths, high ceilings and waiters in formal dress. Some are grand and ornate, others smoky-looking and slightly faded, but the unhurried rhythm is the same everywhere.
Ordering without confusion
Simply asking for a coffee won't get you far. A melange is the most popular choice, similar to a cappuccino with milk foam. A kleiner or grosser Brauner is coffee with a little milk or cream on the side, while an Einspänner comes in a glass topped with whipped cream. Coffee traditionally arrives on a small silver tray with a glass of water, which waiters will refill without being asked.
Cake is half the point. Look for the famous chocolate torte, apple strudel, a layered poppy-seed or nut cake, or whatever the house is known for. Many coffee houses also serve simple savoury dishes such as goulash or sausages, so you can make a full meal of it.
The etiquette of lingering
One of the great pleasures is that nobody will rush you. It's entirely normal to sit for a long time over one drink, reading from the newspapers on wooden holders. When you're ready to pay, catch the waiter's eye and ask for the bill; it won't appear by itself.
Service can come across as brisk, even grumpy. This is part of the tradition rather than a sign that you're unwelcome. Rounding up the bill or adding a small tip is customary.
Coffee houses are also a refuge in every season. In winter, they offer warmth and a slow afternoon away from the cold. In summer, many put tables outside on the pavement or in quiet courtyards. Some host readings, piano music or chess players, and a few still have billiard tables in back rooms. Whatever the time of year, the best approach is to arrive without a schedule, order something you've never tried and let the hours pass. It's a very Viennese way of spending time, and one that many visitors find they miss when they get home.
Building a coffee house day
Try contrasting styles: a grand café on the Ringstrasse for breakfast, a smaller literary café in the old town in the afternoon, and a traditional cake shop near the palace for a late treat. Combined with a museum or two, it's one of the most relaxing ways to spend a winter or spring day in the city.
Good to know
- Go mid-morning or mid-afternoon on weekdays to avoid queues at the most famous cafés.
- Ask whether you can sit anywhere; in many traditional houses you simply choose a free table.
- Carry some cash for tips, though most places accept cards for the bill.