More than a cafe
The Viennese coffee house is so central to city life that it has been recognised by UNESCO as part of Austria's intangible cultural heritage. For generations, these spacious rooms have served as living rooms, offices and debating chambers for writers, artists and ordinary residents alike.
The defining feature is time. Order one coffee and you are welcome to stay for hours, reading the newspapers provided, writing, or simply watching the world go by. Nobody will hurry you, and a glass of water typically accompanies every coffee.
Understanding the menu
Ordering a simple coffee will get you a puzzled look. A Melange is the classic choice, similar to a cappuccino with steamed milk and foam. A Kleiner Brauner is a small espresso with a little milk or cream, while an Einspänner is a strong black coffee topped with whipped cream and served in a glass. A Verlängerter is an espresso lengthened with hot water.
Do not feel obliged to know every variation. Waiters, often dressed formally, are used to visitors and can explain the options.
Cakes and snacks
Most coffee houses display a tempting selection of cakes. Sachertorte, the dense chocolate cake with apricot jam, is the most famous, but Apfelstrudel, Topfenstrudel with sweet curd cheese, and the layered Esterházy torte are just as worthy. Many coffee houses also serve light meals, breakfasts and savoury dishes such as goulash or sausages.
Afternoon is the busiest time for cake, so arrive a little earlier if you want a good table.
Choosing a coffee house
Some of the grandest coffee houses are near the Hofburg and along the Ringstrasse, with chandeliers, high ceilings and queues to match. Others, tucked into side streets in districts such as the Josefstadt or Neubau, have faded velvet seats and a more neighbourhood feel.
Visiting a few different kinds gives you the best sense of the tradition. A quieter morning visit to a classic house, followed by an afternoon in a smaller local one, is a good combination.
There is also a modern specialty coffee scene in Vienna, but the traditional coffee house remains a must for any first visit.
Good to know
- Order a Melange if you are unsure what to choose.
- Visit grand coffee houses early in the morning to avoid queues.
- Tip by rounding up the bill when you pay the waiter.