Spätzle
If one dish defines Swabian cooking, it is Spätzle: soft, irregular egg noodles made by pressing or scraping dough into boiling water. They are served as a side dish with roasts and gravy, or as a main course in the form of Käsespätzle, layered with melted cheese and topped with crispy fried onions. It is rich, comforting and perfect after a day of walking the hills.
Many Swabian families still make Spätzle at home, and restaurants often take pride in preparing them fresh.
Maultaschen
Maultaschen are large pasta pockets filled with a mixture of minced meat, spinach, bread and herbs. They can be served in broth, sliced and fried with onions and egg, or with a potato salad. Vegetarian versions are increasingly common.
A popular local story claims the pasta wrapping was invented to hide meat during Lent, earning them the nickname of a sly little trick on the heavens. Whatever their origins, they are a staple of the regional table.
Linsen mit Spätzle and other classics
Another beloved dish is lentils with Spätzle, often served with sausages and a splash of vinegar for a slightly sweet-sour flavour. Roast beef with onions, known as Zwiebelrostbraten, is a heartier choice for meat lovers.
Swabian potato salad is made with broth and vinegar rather than mayonnaise, giving it a lighter, tangy taste. It accompanies many dishes and is worth ordering as a side.
Bakeries and sweets
Swabian pretzels are slightly different from their Bavarian cousins, with thinner arms and a thicker belly. They are eaten at breakfast, as a snack, or split and spread with butter. Bakeries also sell a range of yeast cakes and fruit tarts that change with the seasons.
In autumn, look out for onion tart served with young, partially fermented wine, a seasonal combination that appears in taverns around harvest time.
Where to eat
Traditional restaurants and wine taverns are the best places to try these dishes. Many are in the older districts, such as Bad Cannstatt and the area around the Bohnenviertel, one of the few parts of the centre with historic houses. The covered market hall in the city centre is also a good spot for regional specialities and picnic supplies.
Good to know
- Order Käsespätzle as a main course; it is very filling.
- Try Swabian potato salad, made with broth rather than mayonnaise.
- Look for onion tart and new wine in autumn.