Eating seafood in Split: a guide to konobas and Dalmatian dishes

The konoba tradition

In Dalmatia, a konoba was traditionally a cellar where wine, olive oil and cured meats were stored, and where families and neighbours gathered to eat. Today, the word is used for informal, often family-run restaurants serving local food. A good konoba has a short menu, a few wooden tables and a focus on whatever came off the boats that morning.

In Split, you will find konobas tucked into the lanes of the old town and the neighbouring Varoš district, as well as more polished seafood restaurants along the waterfront.

Start at the fish market

Split's fish market, close to the old town, is a lively place in the morning, with stalls of sardines, squid, sea bream, scorpionfish and shellfish. Even if you are not cooking, it is worth a visit to see what is in season and to get a sense of the day's catch.

Restaurants often display their fresh fish on ice and sell it by weight. Don't be shy about asking how large a fish is and roughly what it will cost before ordering.

Dishes to try

Grilled fish, simply dressed with olive oil, garlic and parsley, is the classic choice, often served with blitva, a side of chard and potatoes. Black risotto, coloured and flavoured with cuttlefish ink, is another Dalmatian staple.

Look out for brudet or brodet, a slow-cooked fish stew often served with polenta, and buzara, a method of cooking mussels or scampi in wine, garlic and breadcrumbs. Hearty pašticada, a beef stew, is a non-seafood speciality worth trying if someone in your group isn't a fish lover.

Many konobas also prepare dishes peka style, slow-cooked under an iron bell covered in embers. Peka dishes, such as octopus with potatoes, often need to be ordered in advance.

Wine and timing

Dalmatia produces a range of local wines, from crisp whites such as pošip to robust reds from the plavac mali grape. House wine served by the jug is common and often good value.

Locals tend to eat lunch late and dinner later still, especially in summer. Booking ahead is a good idea at popular places in July and August, and quieter months such as May, June and September often bring a more relaxed experience.

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