The Dalmatian table
Dalmatian cooking is Mediterranean at heart: olive oil, garlic, fresh herbs, seafood and seasonal vegetables, with influences from centuries of Venetian rule. Dishes are simple and let good ingredients speak, which is exactly why they taste so good on a terrace by the sea.
The best introduction is a konoba, a traditional tavern that is often family run, with stone walls, wooden tables and a menu that changes with the catch and the season.
Dishes to try
Pašticada is the region's celebratory dish: beef marinated in vinegar and wine, then slow-cooked for hours with dried plums and spices until it falls apart, usually served with gnocchi. It takes so long to prepare that it is often only available on certain days, so grab it when you see it.
Seafood lovers should look for black risotto coloured with cuttlefish ink, grilled whole fish sold by weight, and buzara, mussels or shellfish cooked in wine, garlic and breadcrumbs. Soparnik, a thin savoury pie filled with chard, is a traditional speciality from the coast just south of Split.
Peka and slow cooking
If you see peka on a menu, order it. Meat, octopus or vegetables are placed in a heavy dish under a bell-shaped iron lid, then covered in hot embers and left to cook slowly. The result is tender, smoky and fragrant.
Peka usually needs to be ordered in advance, often a few hours or even a day ahead, because of the long cooking time. Ask when you book your table.
Markets and morning coffee
Just east of Diocletian's Palace, the open-air green market is where locals buy fruit, vegetables, cheese and dried figs. Nearby, the fish market fills with the morning catch. Arrive early to see them at their busiest.
Coffee is a social ritual in Split. People linger over a single cup for an hour on the Riva or in a palace square. Join them, and finish your day with a glass of local wine; Dalmatia produces excellent reds from grapes such as plavac mali.
Sweet treats
For dessert, look for rožata, a Dalmatian custard similar to crème caramel, flavoured with lemon zest and a little rose liqueur. Fritule, small fried doughnuts often flavoured with citrus and brandy, are popular around Christmas and festivals. Paired with a glass of sweet dessert wine, they make a fine end to a long Dalmatian meal.
Good to know
- Restaurants a few lanes back from the Riva often offer better value.
- Ask about the catch of the day and check the price per kilo before ordering.
- Order peka in advance when you book your table.