A city that swims
Split is unusual among historic cities: its Roman palace is a living neighbourhood, and its residents head to the sea as naturally as they head to a café. You can spend a morning among ancient columns and be in the water within a 10-minute walk.
The city beaches are no secret, but they are part of local life, and joining in is one of the best ways to understand Split.
Bačvice and the game of picigin
Bačvice is the city's best-known beach, a sandy bay just east of the ferry port and old town. Its shallow water makes it pleasant for families, and it has a beach bar culture that continues into the evening.
It is also the home of picigin, a local game in which players stand in the shallows and keep a small ball from touching the water, slapping it to each other with dramatic dives and splashes. There is no winner as such; the point is style and keeping the ball in the air. You will often see groups playing all year round, even on mild winter days.
Around Marjan
West of the centre, Marjan hill is a forested park with walking and cycling trails. Its shoreline has a series of rocky beaches and small coves. Bene, on the northern side, has shade from pine trees and sports facilities, while Kašjuni on the southern side is a more upmarket pebble beach with views of the islands.
Between them are rocks and concrete platforms where locals simply lay down a towel and dive in. These spots tend to have clearer water than the sandier city beaches.
East along the coast
Beyond Bačvice, a string of beaches continues east, including Firule, Žnjan and others along the coastal promenade. Žnjan is long and pebbly with plenty of space, bars and sports areas, and it is easy to reach by bus or bike.
If you are staying in Split for a few days before or after an island trip, these city beaches let you fit in a swim around sightseeing without needing transport or a full day out.
Evenings are a good time to swim too. After the heat of the day, the sea is at its warmest and the light over the islands turns golden, and many locals take a quick dip on their way home from work.
Good to know
- Try a swim at Marjan in the morning for the clearest water.
- Watch a game of picigin at Bačvice, or join in if invited.
- Water shoes help on the rocky Marjan beaches.