An island with a story
Spinalonga is a small island off the northeast coast of Crete, guarding the entrance to the bay of Elounda. The Venetians built a formidable sea fortress here, and later it was held by the Ottomans. In the 20th century, it became a colony for people with leprosy, one of the last in Europe, and remained so until the 1950s.
Today it is uninhabited, an atmospheric place of stone walls, ruined houses and sweeping views. Its story has been told in popular fiction, which has drawn many visitors in recent years.
Before Spinalonga became an island, it was actually part of the Kolokytha peninsula. The Venetians cut it off with a channel to strengthen its defences, and its fortress held out for decades after the rest of Crete had fallen.
Getting there
Boats to Spinalonga leave regularly in season from the fishing village of Plaka, which is just across a narrow strait, and from the resort town of Elounda. Longer cruises depart from Agios Nikolaos and typically combine the island with a swimming stop and sometimes lunch.
From Heraklion, the drive to Elounda is roughly an hour, depending on traffic. A rental car lets you visit the island early in the day, before the larger tour groups arrive.
Exploring the island
A path loops around the island, passing the fortifications, the old main street, a church and the former hospital buildings. Information boards explain the island's history and life in the colony. It takes around an hour or two to walk around at a gentle pace.
There is very little shade, so bring water, a hat and sunscreen. Comfortable shoes are important, as paths are uneven and include steps.
Visiting outside the peak midday hours also gives you softer light for photographs and a more reflective atmosphere, which suits the island's sombre history.
Swimming in the Gulf of Mirabello
After your visit, cool off in the calm waters around Elounda and Plaka. The Kolokytha peninsula, reached by a causeway near Elounda, has small beaches with clear water and good snorkelling. Plaka's own pebbly beach has views across to Spinalonga.
Many boat trips stop at sheltered bays for a swim, so wear your swimsuit under your clothes. End the day with seafood at a taverna overlooking the water.
Good to know
- Take an early boat to avoid crowds and heat on the island.
- Bring water and a hat, as shade is limited.
- Combine the trip with a swim on the Kolokytha peninsula.