A nation of seafood lovers
Portugal has one of the highest rates of fish consumption in Europe, and the coast around Lisbon is a great place to understand why. Seafood here is fresh, simply cooked and generous, and you can eat it everywhere from tiny family-run tascas to bustling seafood halls.
Combining a beach day with a seafood lunch is one of the great pleasures of a Lisbon trip.
The Atlantic waters off this coast are cold and rich in nutrients, which is part of the reason the fish and shellfish are so good. Lisbon's own riverside neighbourhoods, from Cais do Sodré to Belém, also have their share of classic seafood houses.
Marisqueiras and grills
A marisqueira is a seafood restaurant where shellfish is often displayed in tanks or on ice and sold by weight. Expect prawns, crabs, clams, lobster and goose barnacles, known as percebes, an unusual delicacy with an intense taste of the sea.
For fish, look for restaurants with a charcoal grill outside. Grilled sea bass, sea bream and sardines are served simply with boiled potatoes, salad and olive oil.
Classic dishes
Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato, clams cooked with garlic, olive oil, coriander and lemon, is a Lisbon classic. Arroz de marisco, a soupy seafood rice, is a generous dish to share. Bacalhau, salted cod, appears in countless forms across Portugal and is worth trying in at least one of them.
Grilled sardines are the taste of a Lisbon summer, especially in June, when the city's popular saints' festivals fill the streets with the smoke of outdoor grills.
Where to go
Cascais has a fishing harbour and many seafood restaurants, from simple places to more upmarket options. Further north, the surf town of Ericeira is known for its seafood and fishing heritage.
Across the river, the port city of Setúbal is famous for choco frito, crispy fried cuttlefish, and makes a good day out combined with the beaches of the Arrábida natural park. Costa da Caparica's beach bars and fishing villages such as Fonte da Telha also serve fresh fish.
Ordering tips
Bread, olives and other small dishes often appear on the table as soon as you sit down. These are usually charged if you eat them, so feel free to send back anything you don't want. When ordering shellfish or fish by weight, ask for an estimate of the price before it is cooked.
Good to know
- Ask for the price of fish and shellfish sold by weight.
- Try grilled sardines in June when they are at their best.
- Pair a seafood lunch with an afternoon at the beach.