Beyond the centre: a local's-eye view of Vinohrady and Žižkov

Vinohrady: Prague's elegant living room

The name Vinohrady recalls the royal vineyards that once covered these slopes. Today the district is a grid of handsome late nineteenth and early twentieth century apartment buildings with ornate facades, interspersed with parks and squares. It is where many Praguers would choose to live if they could.

Start at Náměstí Míru, where the twin spires of the Church of St Ludmila face a lovely neo-Renaissance theatre. From here, stroll the side streets and you will find independent bakeries, wine bars, specialty coffee shops and restaurants serving everything from modern Czech to Vietnamese.

Parks and a vineyard

Riegrovy Sady is a sloping park with one of the best sunset views of the castle across the city, plus a popular beer garden in the warmer months. Havlíčkovy Sady, a little further south, hides a restored vineyard and a romantic villa, and wine is sometimes served on the terraces in summer.

These green spaces fill with families, dog walkers and friends on picnic blankets on fine evenings, and they offer a much more relaxed experience than the riverside in the centre.

Žižkov: rough edges and character

Just north, Žižkov has a different personality. It was historically a working-class district with a rebellious reputation, and it still has a lively, slightly ramshackle feel. It is often said to have more pubs per head than almost anywhere in Europe, and walking its hilly streets, you can believe it.

Its landmark is the futuristic television tower, which looms over the rooftops and is adorned with sculptures of giant crawling babies by a well-known Czech artist. You can ride up to the observation level for views across the whole city.

Vítkov Hill

On the northern edge of Žižkov rises Vítkov Hill, crowned by a huge equestrian statue and a monumental national memorial. The building houses exhibitions on twentieth-century Czech history, and the hilltop park offers a sweeping panorama over the old town towards the castle.

Combine the hill with an afternoon in the area's pubs and you will have seen a side of Prague that many visitors never discover, all within a short tram ride of Old Town Square.

Eating and drinking locally

Both districts are excellent places to eat. Vinohrady has a strong café culture, wine bars and plenty of international restaurants, including a long-established Vietnamese community that has influenced the local food scene. Žižkov is all about pubs, where hearty Czech food and inexpensive beer are the order of the day. Go hungry and follow the locals.

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