Start before the crowds
Old Town Square is the postcard every visitor wants, and by mid-morning it can feel like a stadium concourse. Arrive early, ideally before nine, and the square changes character completely. The pastel facades catch the low light, the Gothic spires of the Týn Church look almost theatrical, and you can actually stand still in front of the astronomical clock without being nudged along.
Give the clock a few minutes, then turn your back on it. The best part of this walk is what lies in the tangle of lanes behind the square, where the city still feels like a place people live rather than a stage set.
Lanes, passages and courtyards
Head east along the narrow streets towards the Powder Tower, then double back through the side alleys. Prague is full of pasáže, covered arcades that cut through whole blocks and hide cafés, bookshops and old cinemas. Wandering through them is a bit like finding a secret corridor, and they are especially welcome when the weather turns.
Look up as you go. Many houses still carry their historic signs: a golden ring, three fiddles, a stone bell. Before street numbers existed, these symbols were how people found their way, and spotting them turns an aimless stroll into a quiet treasure hunt.
Into Josefov
A few minutes north of the square, the streets widen into the elegant boulevards of Josefov, the former Jewish Quarter. Most of the old ghetto was cleared and rebuilt around the turn of the twentieth century, which explains the grand Art Nouveau apartment blocks along Pařížská street. Yet several synagogues survived, along with the Old Jewish Cemetery, where gravestones lean against each other in layers that span centuries.
The synagogues and cemetery are typically visited on a combined ticket managed by the Jewish Museum, and you should plan for at least two hours to do them justice. The Spanish Synagogue, with its dazzling Moorish-style interior, often surprises people the most. Note that the sites close on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, so check before you build your day around them.
Finish by the river
From Josefov, it is a short walk down to the Vltava. Follow the embankment south and you will get a sweeping view across the water to Prague Castle on its hill. This is a good moment to sit on a bench, rest your legs and plan the next day on the other bank.
If you are hungry, step back a street or two from the river before choosing somewhere to eat. Restaurants with picture menus facing the main sights tend to charge more for less, while places a block away are often where locals actually go.
Good to know
- Wear shoes with good grip; the cobblestones get slippery after rain.
- Dress modestly for synagogue visits, and men may be asked to cover their heads.
- Carry a little cash for small cafés, even though cards are widely accepted.