Choose your approach
Most people cross Charles Bridge and trudge straight up the hill to Prague Castle, arriving hot and tired. A better plan is to take a tram up to the top and walk down instead. Trams heading towards the castle district stop close to the northern gardens, letting you start high and let gravity do the work for the rest of the day.
Alternatively, climb the Old Castle Steps from the east side early in the morning. It is steep, but quieter than the main routes, and the views over the red rooftops of Malá Strana are worth every breath.
Inside the castle complex
Prague Castle is less a single building than a walled town of palaces, churches and courtyards. You can walk through the courtyards for free, but the main interiors need a ticket. The essentials are St Vitus Cathedral, with its soaring Gothic nave and rich stained glass, the Old Royal Palace with its vast vaulted hall, and Golden Lane, a row of tiny colourful houses squeezed against the fortifications.
The changing of the guard at the main gate draws a crowd on the hour, with a bigger ceremony around midday. It is fun to see once, but do not let it dictate your schedule. The cathedral is busiest late morning, so either go in first thing or wait until the afternoon lull.
Gardens and viewpoints
In the warmer months, the terraced gardens on the southern slope below the castle are a highlight. They step down the hillside in a series of balustrades, fountains and pavilions, and the views across the river are some of the best in the city. Opening is seasonal, so treat them as a bonus from spring to autumn.
For a wider panorama, carry on to Strahov Monastery at the top of the hill. Its baroque library halls are beautiful, and the nearby lookout point gives you the whole city spread out below.
Lingering in Malá Strana
Below the castle, Malá Strana, the Lesser Town, is a district of baroque palaces, embassies and quiet squares. The great green dome of St Nicholas Church dominates the main square, and its interior is a riot of frescoes and gilded statues.
Spend the late afternoon getting a little lost. Wander down to Kampa Island, where a small park sits beside the river and a narrow channel turns old mill wheels. It is one of the most peaceful corners in central Prague, and a lovely place to end the day before crossing the bridge back at dusk.
Good to know
- Buy a 24-hour public transport ticket if you plan to use trams to reach the castle and beyond.
- Bags may be checked at the castle entrances, so travel light.
- Cross Charles Bridge at sunrise or after dark for the calmest experience.