A nation of beer lovers
Beer is woven into Czech life. The country gave the world the golden pale lager known as pilsner, first brewed in the nineteenth century in the western Bohemian city that shares its name, and Czechs are consistently among the biggest beer drinkers in the world.
In Prague, beer is not just a drink but a social ritual. Pubs are meeting places for friends, colleagues and neighbours, and many have changed remarkably little in decades.
Ordering like a local
Most Czech lagers are described by colour: světlé for pale, tmavé for dark and polotmavé for amber. You'll also see numbers such as 10 or 12 on menus. They refer to a traditional measure of the beer's strength before fermentation, with higher numbers generally meaning fuller, stronger beers.
In traditional pubs, a waiter may keep track of your drinks on a slip of paper at the table and bring a new glass when yours is nearly empty. Put a beer mat on top of your glass when you've had enough.
The art of the pour
Czech bartenders take pouring seriously, and the amount of foam is part of the style. A hladinka has a thick, creamy head on top of the beer, the most common pour. A šnyt has more foam and less beer, a smaller serving for a quick taste. A mlíko is almost entirely foam, sweet and creamy, and is traditionally drunk quickly.
Trying the different pours is a fun way to see how texture changes the flavour of the same beer.
Where to drink
Prague has historic beer halls with long tables, smaller neighbourhood pubs and many microbreweries producing everything from classic lagers to modern craft styles. Several monasteries and old breweries have been brewing for centuries. Outside the old town, residential districts have friendly pubs with lower prices and a local crowd.
In warm months, beer gardens on the hills offer views over the city.
Food to match
Classic pub food is designed to accompany beer. Look for pickled sausages, marinated cheese with onions, fried cheese, goulash, roast pork knuckle and dumplings. If you don't drink alcohol, many places serve non-alcoholic beers and Czech lemonades, and the pub atmosphere is just as enjoyable.
For a deeper dive, consider a day trip to one of the country's historic brewing towns. Western and southern Bohemia are home to some of the most famous breweries in the Czech Republic, several of which offer tours explaining the brewing process, with tastings straight from the cellar. Trains from Prague make these easy outings.
Good to know
- Stick to beer in traditional pubs; that's what they do best.
- Pace yourself; Czech beers can be stronger than they taste.
- Explore pubs outside the old town for a more local experience.