Pebbles, not sand
The first thing to know about Nice's beaches is that they are made of smooth grey pebbles rather than sand. Some visitors are disappointed at first, but the pebbles have their advantages: the water stays clearer because there is no sand to churn up, you don't carry half the beach back to your hotel, and the sea becomes deep quickly, which makes for proper swimming rather than wading.
The trade-off is comfort. A thin towel on pebbles is not much fun, so bring a thicker mat, a cushion or consider hiring a sunbed for at least part of your stay.
Public or private?
Along the Promenade des Anglais, the beach alternates between free public sections and private beach clubs. The public stretches are open to everyone and have showers in many places. The private clubs rent sunbeds and parasols for the day, often with a restaurant and table service, and they make sense if you want shade and a lazy lunch.
There is no shame in mixing the two. Many visitors spend mornings on the public beach and treat themselves to a beach club afternoon once or twice during a trip.
Swimming spots beyond the Promenade
East of the old town and past the port, the coast becomes rocky. Here locals swim from concrete platforms and ladders around the Coco Beach area, where the water is very clear and the views back over the bay are excellent. It feels more like a local secret, though it is no longer much of one.
Closer to the port, the small beach at La Réserve sits beneath a landmark building and is a good spot for an evening dip. For softer sand, many people take the train or bus a few minutes east to Villefranche-sur-Mer, whose sheltered bay has a finer mix of sand and shingle.
Comfort and timing
Water shoes make getting in and out of the sea much easier on pebbles. The water is usually at its warmest from late summer into early autumn, and the beaches are noticeably calmer in September than in July and August.
Nice airport sits right on the coast west of the city, and tram connections into the centre make it easy to be on the beach within an hour of landing. Pack a swimsuit in your personal item and you can swim before you even check in.
Good to know
- Pack water shoes and a thick towel or foldable mat.
- Book a beach club sunbed ahead on summer weekends.
- September often has warm water and fewer crowds.