Starting at Place Masséna
Nice is a city that rewards walking. Begin at Place Masséna, the grand square with red-ochre buildings and a black and white chequerboard pavement that links the old town and the modern city. Just beside it, the Promenade du Paillon is a long green park with fountains and a water mirror, where children run through jets of mist on hot days.
From here, the narrow lanes of the old town are only a few steps away.
Into Vieux Nice
Vieux Nice is a maze of tall, narrow houses painted in shades of ochre, pink and yellow, with laundry hanging from shuttered windows. Its streets hide baroque churches, small squares, bakeries and shops selling olive oil, soaps and local crafts. The Cathedral of Sainte-Réparate, with its glazed-tile dome, and the richly decorated Chapelle de la Miséricorde are both worth a look.
The heart of the old town is the Cours Saleya, a long square famous for its market. In the mornings, stalls sell fresh flowers, fruit and vegetables, and the colours and scents are glorious. On many Mondays, it becomes an antiques and flea market. In the evenings, the square fills with restaurant terraces.
Up the castle hill
At the eastern end of the old town, the Colline du Château rises steeply above the sea. There is no longer a castle, but the park on top offers the best views in Nice: the sweep of the Baie des Anges in one direction and the harbour in the other. An artificial waterfall cascades down the hillside, and paths wind through pine trees. You can climb the steps or take a lift from near the seafront.
On the far side, Port Lympia is lined with Italianate buildings and fishing boats, and is a good spot for a drink.
Along the Promenade
Return to the seafront and walk west along the Promenade des Anglais, the famous boulevard that follows the curve of the bay for several kilometres. Named after the English visitors who helped fund it in the nineteenth century, it is lined with palm trees, blue chairs and grand hotels, including the domed Negresco.
The beaches are made of smooth pebbles rather than sand, and the water is clear and blue. Some sections are public and free; others are private beach clubs with sunbeds and restaurants. Stay for sunset, when the whole bay turns pink and gold.
Good to know
- Bring water shoes or sandals; Nice's pebble beaches can be tough on bare feet.
- Visit the Cours Saleya market early in the morning for the best flowers and produce.
- The airport tram line connects NCE with the city centre and the Promenade.