Nice on a plate: markets, socca and Provençal flavours

A cuisine of its own

Nice belonged to the House of Savoy for long periods of its history and only became part of France in the nineteenth century. Its cooking reflects that, combining Provençal ingredients such as olive oil, garlic, herbs and vegetables with influences from neighbouring Liguria in Italy. The result is light, sunny food that is quite different from classic French cuisine.

Local restaurants proud of their traditional cooking sometimes display a label showing that they prepare authentic Niçoise dishes, which can be a helpful guide.

The market at Cours Saleya

The long square of Cours Saleya, in the old town just behind the seafront, is home to a famous flower and produce market. In the morning, stalls are piled with tomatoes, courgettes, citrus fruit, olives, herbs and cheeses, and the scent of flowers fills the air. On some days the square hosts an antiques and flea market instead.

Arrive in the morning for the best selection and atmosphere. Cafés around the edges are ideal for a coffee while you watch the market unfold.

Snacks to try

Socca, a thin, crispy pancake of chickpea flour and olive oil cooked in a wood-fired oven and seasoned with black pepper, is Nice's signature street snack. Pissaladière is a flatbread topped with slow-cooked onions, anchovies and olives. Pan bagnat is a round sandwich filled with tuna, egg, vegetables and olive oil, essentially a portable version of the famous salad.

Look for petits farcis, vegetables stuffed with a savoury filling, and courgette flower fritters in season. Many of these are sold by the slice or piece at bakeries and stalls around the old town.

The real salade niçoise

The salad that carries the city's name is the subject of much local debate. Purists tend to insist on raw vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers and radishes, with olives, eggs and tuna or anchovies, and frown on cooked potatoes or green beans. Whatever the version, it's best eaten simply with good olive oil and bread.

Main courses often feature daube, a slow-cooked beef stew, and fresh fish from the Mediterranean.

Wine and sweets

Nice has its own small wine appellation in the hills above the city, producing whites, reds and rosés in limited quantities. Rosé from the wider Provence region is the classic summer drink. For something sweet, try a tourte de blettes, a surprising tart filled with chard, raisins and pine nuts.

Lunch is the best time to try traditional cooking at good value, as many small restaurants offer a set menu of the day. Booking ahead in the evening is wise in summer, when the old town's tables fill quickly with locals and visitors alike.

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