Green on every side
Vienna is often thought of as a city of palaces and coffee houses, but it is surrounded by green space. The Vienna Woods roll in from the west, the Danube flows through the east and the eastern edge of the Alps begins only an hour or two away by train.
That makes it easy to combine a cultural city break with a day or two of walking, cycling or simply breathing mountain air.
The Vienna Woods
The Wienerwald is a large area of forested hills stretching from the city's western edge. City walking trails, signposted and numbered, lead from tram and bus stops into the woods, vineyards and viewpoints. Several end at wine taverns, which is very much part of the Viennese idea of a good walk.
Further into the woods, you'll find monasteries, small spa towns and quiet valleys, all reachable by local train.
The first Alpine peaks
South of Vienna, the Alps begin. The Rax and Schneeberg massifs are the city's traditional mountain playground, with high plateaus, rocky summits and mountain huts. A historic rack railway climbs one of them and a cable car serves the other, so you can reach high ground without a long ascent.
Nearby, the Semmering railway, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, winds through mountain scenery on viaducts and tunnels built in the nineteenth century. Walking paths follow the line, offering views of the trains crossing the valleys.
The Danube and the Wachau
The Danube cycle path runs right through Vienna and is one of Europe's most popular long-distance routes. A highlight is the Wachau valley to the west, a stretch of river lined with vineyards, apricot orchards, castles and a great baroque abbey on a cliff.
Trains reach the valley in around an hour, and bikes can be rented locally. Boats along the river make it easy to ride one way and sail back.
When to go
Spring and autumn are ideal for walking and cycling, with blossom in the Wachau in early spring and harvest colours later in the year. Summer brings warm days and cooler mountain air. In winter, the nearby peaks offer snowshoeing and gentle skiing, though conditions vary.
Coming back into the city after a day outdoors is part of the appeal. Trains from the mountains and the Danube valley return in the early evening, leaving time for dinner, a concert or a glass of wine at a heuriger on the edge of town. Few capitals make the switch between nature and culture quite so easy.
Good to know
- Check rack railway and cable car seasons before planning a mountain day.
- Use Vienna's numbered city trails for easy walks from public transport.
- Try apricot specialities in the Wachau, from jam to schnapps.