A different Mallorca
Mallorca's northwest coast is shaped by the Serra de Tramuntana, a mountain range recognised by UNESCO for its cultural landscape of terraces, stone walls and villages. Here the mountains fall steeply into the sea, leaving little room for wide sandy beaches. What you get instead are small coves, often pebbly, with astonishingly clear water and views that make the effort worthwhile.
This is a coast for people who are happy to trade sunbeds for scenery. Swims here tend to be short, cool and memorable.
Port de Sóller
Port de Sóller is the most accessible base on this coast, set around an almost circular natural harbour. It has a sandy town beach, a promenade lined with restaurants and boat trips along the coast. Part of the fun is getting there: a vintage train runs from Palma to the town of Sóller through the mountains, and an old tram continues down to the port.
From the port, boats head along the cliffs to Sa Calobra in season, which saves you the famously twisting mountain road if you'd rather not drive it.
Sa Calobra and Cala Tuent
Sa Calobra is reached by a spectacular hairpin road or by boat. A short path through tunnels in the rock leads to the mouth of the Torrent de Pareis, a gorge that opens onto a pebbly beach between towering walls. It is extraordinary, but popular, so arrive early or late.
Neighbouring Cala Tuent shares the same road for most of the way but sees far fewer visitors. It is a wide pebble bay backed by pine trees, with a taverna above and a much calmer feel.
Deià and Valldemossa's harbours
Below the village of Deià, a path winds down to Cala Deià, a rocky inlet with a couple of seafood restaurants perched over the water. Swimmers jump off the rocks into deep, clear water, and the setting is one of the most photographed on the island.
Port de Valldemossa, at the bottom of a narrow road from Valldemossa, is a tiny hamlet with a stony beach and a restaurant. It feels remote despite being less than an hour from Palma.
Planning your visit
Parking at many of these coves is limited and fills quickly in summer, so start early. A rental car from Palma airport gives you the most flexibility, but the train, tram and coastal boats make a car-free day possible too. Mountain roads are narrow and shared with cyclists and coaches, so allow more time than your map app suggests.
Good to know
- Bring water shoes for pebbles and rocky entries.
- Arrive before 10am to find parking at popular coves.
- Check boat schedules from Port de Sóller, as they depend on the sea.