A coast without the crossing
Many visitors to Split head straight for the islands, but the mainland coast to the south has plenty to offer, without ferry timetables to worry about. Here the Adriatic Highway winds between the sea and the Biokovo mountains, which rise steeply behind a string of pebble beaches and resort towns.
With a rental car, you can reach the first beaches within half an hour and explore the whole coast in a day, or base yourself in one of the towns for a beach holiday.
Omiš and the Cetina river
Omiš is a small town where the Cetina river cuts through a dramatic canyon to meet the sea. Its old town is squeezed between the cliffs and the river, with ruined fortresses perched above, once used by pirates who controlled this stretch of coast in the Middle Ages.
Omiš has a long sandy beach, a rarity in Dalmatia, and the Cetina canyon is a centre for outdoor activities, including rafting, canoeing, ziplining and canyoning. A boat trip up the calm lower river is a more relaxed alternative.
The Makarska Riviera
South of Omiš, the Makarska Riviera is a string of resorts and villages with long pebble beaches backed by pine trees. Brela is often praised for its beaches, including Punta Rata, with its pine-topped rock just offshore. Baška Voda has a lively promenade, while Makarska itself is the largest town, with a busy harbour and plenty of bars and restaurants.
Further south, Tučepi, Podgora and smaller villages offer quieter options. The water along this coast is very clear, and the backdrop of the mountains makes every beach feel special.
Beaches here are made of small, smooth pebbles that don't stick to you, and the sea becomes deep fairly quickly, which makes for excellent swimming but calls for care with young children.
Into the mountains
Biokovo Nature Park, behind Makarska, has a mountain road climbing to high viewpoints and a skywalk with a glass floor extending over the cliff edge. On clear days, the views stretch across the islands of Brač and Hvar. The road is narrow and winding, and access may be restricted at times, so check before you go.
Hikers can also climb the mountain on foot, though it is a strenuous day and best tackled early in the morning, with plenty of water.
Good to know
- Drive the coastal road early to avoid summer traffic.
- Try a boat trip on the Cetina river for an easy taste of the canyon.
- Check access to the Biokovo road and skywalk before setting off.