Escaping the capital
One of Madrid's great strengths is what lies around it. Within an hour or so by train sit three of Spain's most remarkable historic towns, each a UNESCO World Heritage Site and each with a very different personality. If you only have time for one, the choice depends on what you love most: medieval streets, Roman engineering or royal grandeur.
All three are easy by public transport, and none requires an early start beyond a reasonable breakfast. If you want to combine two in one day, a rental car makes that much more practical.
Toledo: the city of three cultures
High-speed trains reach Toledo in around half an hour. The old town sits on a rocky hill wrapped by a loop of the River Tagus, and its skyline of towers and domes looks much as it did in the paintings of El Greco, who lived and worked here. For centuries Christians, Muslims and Jews lived side by side in the city, and their legacy survives in churches, a former mosque and two historic synagogues.
The Gothic cathedral is vast and richly decorated, and several of El Greco's finest works can be seen around the city. Toledo is famous for marzipan and for damascene metalwork. Its streets are steep and cobbled, so comfortable shoes are essential, and the view from the road across the river at dusk is worth the walk.
Segovia: aqueduct and fairy-tale castle
Segovia is about half an hour by high-speed train, although the station is outside town and needs a short bus ride. The first sight is unforgettable: a Roman aqueduct of granite blocks held together without mortar, striding across the main square on tall arches.
From there, a lively street climbs through the old town to a golden Gothic cathedral and then to the Alcázar, a castle perched on a rocky prow with turrets that look straight out of a storybook. Segovia's signature dish is cochinillo, roast suckling pig, traditionally so tender it can be cut with the edge of a plate.
El Escorial: power and austerity
In the foothills of the Sierra de Guadarrama, the Royal Monastery of San Lorenzo de El Escorial was built in the sixteenth century as monastery, palace, library and royal mausoleum in one. Its granite severity contrasts with the richly painted library and the pantheon where Spanish monarchs are buried. Local trains reach the town in around an hour, and the cool mountain air is a welcome relief in summer.
Combine it with a walk in the surrounding hills, or with a stop at the nearby Valley of Cuelgamuros, a controversial monument whose future continues to be debated in Spain.
Good to know
- Book high-speed train tickets to Toledo and Segovia in advance at weekends, when they fill quickly.
- Toledo is very hot in summer; visit early or late and rest in the middle of the day.
- Many monuments close one day a week, often Monday, so check before you go.