The Paseo del Arte
Along a leafy stretch of the Paseo del Prado, Madrid gathers three museums that together cover European art from the Middle Ages to the late twentieth century. They are close enough to visit in a single day, but that would be exhausting. A better approach is to give each its own half-day and use the gaps for long lunches and walks in the Retiro park next door.
Museo del Prado
The Prado is one of the great picture galleries of the world, built on the collections of Spain's royal families. Its strengths are Spanish painting, above all Velázquez, Goya and El Greco, along with superb Flemish and Italian works. Velázquez's Las Meninas is the star, while Goya's dark Black Paintings, originally painted on the walls of his house, are unforgettable.
Do not try to see everything. Pick a few rooms, give them proper time and leave before your attention runs out. The museum typically offers free entry in the last couple of hours of the day, which brings long queues but is a good option on a budget.
Museo Reina Sofía
A short walk south, near Atocha station, the Reina Sofía holds modern and contemporary art in a former hospital with glass lift towers added outside. The museum's centrepiece is Picasso's Guernica, a vast monochrome response to the bombing of the Basque town in 1937. The rooms around it place it in the context of the Spanish Civil War.
Salvador Dalí, Joan Miró and many lesser-known Spanish artists are well represented, and the museum is a good counterweight to the old masters of the Prado.
Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza
The Thyssen fills the gaps between the other two. Built from a private collection, it runs chronologically from early Italian painting through Dutch masters, Impressionism, German Expressionism and American pop art. It is the most compact and easy to navigate of the three, and a good choice if you have limited time and want a broad overview.
Putting it together
A combined ticket for the three museums is usually available and can save money if you plan to visit all of them in a set period. Start early, take breaks in the cafes or in the Retiro, and save the busiest museum for the quieter part of the week. Fly into MAD on a Friday and you can comfortably fit the triangle into a long weekend alongside the rest of the city.
Good to know
- Book timed tickets online to avoid the longest queues, especially at the Prado.
- Most of the museums close one day a week, so check which before you plan.
- Use the Retiro park between visits; a rowing boat on the lake is a fine way to rest tired feet.