Why viewpoints matter here
Lisbon's hills are hard work, but every climb has a reward. The city is dotted with miradouros, public viewpoints often set in small gardens or terraces with benches, a kiosk selling drinks and a view across rooftops to the river. Visiting them is one of the great free pleasures of a trip, and linking a few together makes a fine walking route.
Each faces a slightly different direction, so the light changes the experience throughout the day.
A simple plan is to start at the castle end of the city in the morning, work your way down through Alfama by lunchtime and cross to Bairro Alto for the late afternoon and sunset. That way the sun is behind you at each stop, and you descend most of the steepest slopes rather than climbing them.
Graça and Senhora do Monte
The Miradouro da Senhora do Monte is the highest of the classic viewpoints, looking across the whole centre to the castle, the Baixa and the river. It is especially beautiful at sunset, when the city glows orange and pink. Just below, the Miradouro da Graça sits beside a church and convent with a popular cafe terrace under pine trees.
The famous tram line 28 passes nearby, though it is often crowded; walking up through Alfama or taking a bus are alternatives.
Santa Luzia and Portas do Sol
Lower down, Santa Luzia and Portas do Sol overlook Alfama's jumble of roofs and church towers with the river behind. Santa Luzia has a pergola covered in bougainvillea and walls decorated with tiles, while Portas do Sol has a broad terrace. Mornings are the best time, when the sun lights the scene from the east and the crowds are thinner.
From here it is a short climb to the Castelo de São Jorge, which has its own viewpoints from the ramparts.
West of the centre
On the other side of the Baixa, the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara in Bairro Alto looks east across to the castle and is lovely in the late afternoon. You can reach it by the Glória funicular from Restauradores. Further west, Santa Catarina is a relaxed terrace popular with young locals, with views over the river and the April 25th Bridge.
For something different, cross the river by ferry to Cacilhas and walk along the waterfront, or visit the Cristo Rei monument for a view of Lisbon from the south bank.
If you prefer an indoor vantage point, the Elevador de Santa Justa, an iron street lift in the Baixa, has a small viewing platform at the top, and several hotel rooftop bars around Chiado and the Baixa open their terraces to non-guests for a drink.
Good to know
- Bring a light jacket; viewpoints can be windy even on warm days.
- Kiosks at most miradouros sell coffee, beer and snacks, so plan breaks around them.
- Watch your bags at busy viewpoints, especially around sunset.