Kutná Hora: silver and bones
Kutná Hora grew rich on silver in the Middle Ages, and at its peak it rivalled Prague in importance. Today it is a compact, attractive town that makes an easy day trip, usually reached by train in around an hour.
Its most famous sight is the ossuary in the suburb of Sedlec, a small chapel decorated with the bones of tens of thousands of people, arranged into chandeliers, garlands and coats of arms. It is macabre, but handled respectfully it is more moving than ghoulish. In the town itself, St Barbara's Cathedral is a Gothic masterpiece with a spectacular tent-like roofline, and the former royal mint offers a glimpse into how the town made its fortune.
Planning Kutná Hora
The main railway station is closer to Sedlec than to the old town, so many visitors see the ossuary first and then take a local train, bus or a pleasant walk into the centre. Allow a full day to enjoy it without rushing, including a long lunch.
Combined tickets for several of the main sights are typically available and can save a little money if you plan to see more than the bone chapel.
Český Krumlov: storybook views
In the south of Bohemia, Český Krumlov sits in a tight loop of the Vltava river, overlooked by a huge castle with a painted tower. The town is a near-perfect ensemble of Renaissance and baroque houses and is protected as a World Heritage Site.
It is further from Prague, roughly three hours by bus or longer by train, so a day trip is long. If you can, stay overnight. Once the coach groups leave in the late afternoon, the lanes empty out and the town becomes magical.
What to do there
Explore the castle courtyards and gardens, climb the tower for the classic view over the rooftops, and look for the baroque theatre, one of the best preserved of its kind in Europe, which is typically shown on guided tours. In summer, river rafting and canoeing through the town are popular.
Food in Krumlov leans towards hearty South Bohemian fare, with river fish such as trout appearing on many menus. Look for places with riverside terraces for lunch.
Which one should you choose?
If you only have time for one, let your schedule decide. Kutná Hora is the easier and quicker trip, and you can be back in Prague in time for dinner. Český Krumlov is the more spectacular town, but it rewards an overnight stay far more than a rushed return trip. Many travellers find it worthwhile to add an extra night to their Prague break just for Krumlov.
Good to know
- Book Český Krumlov bus seats in advance in summer; they fill quickly.
- Start early for Kutná Hora to beat tour groups at the ossuary.
- Wear comfortable shoes; both towns are hilly and cobbled.