Give the city a chance
Many visitors to Crete land in Heraklion and head straight for the beaches. That is a shame, because the island's capital has a rich history and a lively, authentically Greek city life. Spend a day or two here and you will see a side of Crete that resort towns rarely show.
For centuries, the city was ruled by Venice, which left behind impressive walls, a harbour fortress, fountains and loggias. Later Ottoman rule added its own layer, and the result is a fascinating, if sometimes chaotic, mix.
The Venetian harbour
Start at the old harbour, where fishing boats bob beside the remains of the Venetian arsenals, vaulted buildings where ships were once built and repaired. At the end of the breakwater stands the Koules fortress, a solid sea fort built to guard the port.
Inside, you can explore its chambers and climb to the roof for views back across the city and out to sea. Walk along the breakwater at sunset, when locals come out for an evening stroll.
Lions Square and around
The heart of the old town is the square locals know as Lions Square, after the Venetian fountain at its centre, guarded by stone lions. The surrounding streets are full of cafés, and it is the traditional place to try bougatsa, a pastry filled with sweet custard or salty cheese, for breakfast.
Close by, the elegant Venetian Loggia, a reconstructed arcaded building, now serves as the town hall. The Church of St Titus, the island's patron saint, and the large Cathedral of St Minas are also worth stepping inside.
The great walls
Heraklion's Venetian fortifications are among the most impressive in the Mediterranean, encircling the old town with massive bastions. A path runs along parts of the top of the walls, offering an unusual walk above the city.
On the Martinengo Bastion lies the grave of Nikos Kazantzakis, the Cretan writer best known for Zorba the Greek. His simple tombstone carries a famous epitaph about having no hopes or fears and being free, and the site has wide views towards the mountains.
Modern Heraklion
Heraklion is a busy working city, and its streets can be noisy and traffic-heavy. Do not expect the polished charm of a smaller island town. Instead, enjoy its energy: pedestrian streets lined with cafés, bustling evening squares and a thriving student population that keeps the bars and restaurants lively well into the night.
Good to know
- Try bougatsa near Lions Square for a classic Cretan breakfast.
- Visit the walls in the late afternoon when the heat eases.
- Wear a hat and carry water in summer; shade can be scarce.