Saturday morning: the harbour and the fish market
Hamburg's identity is tied to its port, so start by the water. If you are up early on a Sunday, the famous fish market at Altona is a lively spectacle, with traders calling out prices and a hall that serves breakfast to night owls and early risers alike. On a Saturday, head instead to the Landungsbrücken piers, where harbour cruises depart throughout the day.
A cheaper alternative to a dedicated cruise is to ride one of the public harbour ferries, which are part of the city's transport network. The route out towards Finkenwerder passes container terminals, shipyards and the elegant Elbe riverbank.
Saturday afternoon: Speicherstadt and HafenCity
The Speicherstadt is a district of red-brick warehouses built on oak piles and separated by canals. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most atmospheric places in northern Germany, especially as the light fades. Several museums and attractions are housed in the old warehouses, including the enormous model railway exhibition that fascinates visitors of all ages.
Next door, HafenCity is a modern quarter of offices, apartments and promenades. Its centrepiece is the Elbphilharmonie, a concert hall whose glass crown rises above an old warehouse base. The public viewing plaza offers sweeping views over the harbour and the city.
Sunday: Alster lakes and the old town
Hamburg has two lakes at its centre, the Binnenalster and the larger Aussenalster. Walk or cycle the path around the outer lake, rent a pedal boat or canoe in summer, or take a lake ferry. The surrounding districts are among the city's most elegant.
In the afternoon, visit the grand Town Hall and the shopping streets nearby, then wander up to the Sternschanze district for coffee, independent shops and an easy-going crowd.
Getting there and around
AeroVista flies to HAM, and the S-Bahn links the airport with the central station in around half an hour. Hamburg's public transport is excellent, and day tickets cover buses, trains and the harbour ferries. The weather can change quickly, so pack a waterproof jacket whatever the season.
If you have a spare evening, take a walk along the Elbe beach at Övelgönne, west of the centre, where sandy shores and old pilot houses make a peaceful contrast with the busy port opposite.
Good to know
- Book Elbphilharmonie concert tickets well in advance; the plaza is easier to visit.
- Use harbour ferries with a standard transport ticket.
- The fish market is a Sunday morning event, so plan accordingly.