A lagoon on Faro's doorstep
Many travellers fly into Faro and drive straight west to the cliffs of the central Algarve. They miss something special right next to the airport. The Ria Formosa is a protected lagoon system, a maze of channels, salt marshes and sandbanks sheltered from the Atlantic by a line of long, sandy barrier islands.
Those islands have some of the emptiest beaches in southern Portugal, and reaching them by boat is half the fun.
The lagoon is also a working landscape. Clams, oysters and other shellfish are harvested here, and you will often see people bent over the mudflats at low tide. Many restaurants in Faro and Olhão serve the results.
Ilha Deserta and Ilha do Farol
Ilha Deserta, also known as Barreta, lives up to its name. It has a long stretch of sand, a boardwalk through the dunes and very little else beyond a restaurant. Boats leave from Faro's waterfront near the old town, and the journey through the lagoon is a lovely introduction to the area's birdlife.
Ilha do Farol, named for its lighthouse, has a small community of holiday cottages and a relaxed beach on the ocean side. It shares the island with Culatra, a fishing village with sandy lanes and no cars, where life moves at a noticeably slower pace.
Armona and Tavira island
From the fishing town of Olhão, a short ferry crosses to Armona, an island of simple holiday homes, beach cafés and a long ocean beach. It is a good choice for families, with calmer lagoon water on one side and the open sea on the other.
Further east, Tavira island is reached by a short boat ride from the town of Tavira or a nearby walk and miniature train from Pedras d'el Rei. Its beach stretches for kilometres, and even in summer you only need to walk a little to find space.
Practical advice
Ferry timetables change with the seasons, so check return times before you set off and keep an eye on the last boat back. Water taxis also operate between many points, at a higher price.
There is little natural shade on the islands, so bring a parasol or hire one where available, along with plenty of water. The Ria Formosa is a nature park, so stick to boardwalks through the dunes and take your rubbish back with you.
Good to know
- Check the last return ferry time before heading out.
- Bring shade, sunscreen and water, as facilities are limited.
- Lagoon boat tours are a good way to see wading birds.