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Altbier and the old town: a night out in Düsseldorf

Düsseldorf's dark top-fermented beer and its famously dense old town make for a memorable evening. Here is how to enjoy both.

Meet the local beer

Altbier, which roughly means old beer, refers to a traditional brewing style rather than the age of the beer itself. It is copper to dark brown in colour, top-fermented and has a malty, slightly bitter character. It is usually served in small, straight glasses, so it stays fresh and cool.

There is a friendly rivalry between Düsseldorf and Cologne over their local beers. Ordering a Kölsch in a Düsseldorf brewery pub is likely to get you a raised eyebrow at best, so stick with Alt while you are here.

Inside a brewery pub

Several historic house breweries in the old town still brew on the premises. Their interiors are typically wood-panelled and crowded, with simple tables and a constant flow of waiters carrying trays of full glasses. As in Cologne, fresh glasses often arrive without asking, and a beer mat placed on top signals that you are finished.

Some breweries offer a special stronger seasonal beer at certain times of year, released on announced days that draw dedicated fans. If one coincides with your visit, it is worth trying.

Brewery pubs are social places, and sharing a table with strangers is completely normal. If a seat is free at a long table, it is fine to ask whether you can join.

Food to soak it up

Menus feature filling Rhineland dishes. Try Rheinischer Sauerbraten, a marinated pot roast with a sweet-sour sauce, or a plate of black pudding with apples and potatoes. Düsseldorf also has its own mustard tradition, a fairly spicy variety that turns up alongside sausages and in many sauces.

If you want something lighter, plenty of restaurants in and around the old town serve international food, from tapas to Japanese.

Navigating the old town after dark

The Altstadt gets very busy on Friday and Saturday nights, especially around Bolkerstrasse. If you prefer a calmer evening, go on a weekday or start early, then wander down to the Rhine promenade when the crowds build.

The area is compact and well lit, and night trams and taxis make it easy to get back to your hotel. As always on a night out, keep an eye on your belongings in crowded bars.

For a different kind of evening, the Flingern and Unterbilk districts have smaller bars, wine bars and cocktail spots favoured by locals.

Good to know

  • Order Altbier, not Kölsch, in Düsseldorf's brewery pubs.
  • Weekday evenings are noticeably calmer in the old town.
  • Bring home a jar of local mustard; it travels well in checked luggage.

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