What a session really is
A traditional Irish music session is not a concert. It is a gathering of musicians, sometimes a handful, sometimes a dozen, who sit around a table in a pub and play jigs, reels and slow airs together. Tunes are passed around, started by one player and joined by the others, and there is rarely a set list.
The instruments vary: fiddle, tin whistle, flute, accordion, banjo, the bodhrán frame drum and sometimes the uilleann pipes, the intricate bellows-blown bagpipes of Ireland. Occasionally the room falls silent for a sean-nós song, an unaccompanied ballad sung in the old style.
Where to listen
Temple Bar has many pubs with live music every night, and the atmosphere is lively and fun, though it is usually aimed at visitors and drinks are priced accordingly. Performances there often lean towards well-known ballads and singalongs.
For a more traditional session, explore pubs in areas just outside the core tourist strip, such as around Smithfield, the Liberties and the streets north of the Liffey. Many pubs advertise their regular session nights, and some have long-running sessions that have become institutions.
Session etiquette
Sessions are informal, but there are a few courtesies. Avoid sitting in the musicians' seats unless invited, keep conversation low during slow airs or solo songs, and do not ask for requests as you would with a band. Applause between sets is welcome.
If you play an instrument, do not just pull it out and join in. Listen for a while, talk to the players, and wait for an invitation. Buying a round for the musicians is a gracious way to say thanks.
Making a night of it
Sessions often start in the evening and build as the night goes on, so arrive early to grab a seat close to the music. Weeknights can be just as good as weekends, and sometimes better, because pubs are less crowded.
Pair the music with a pint of stout, poured slowly in two stages and left to settle before it is topped up. Patience is part of the ritual, and it tends to taste better for the wait.
Beyond the pub
If you want to dig deeper into Irish music, look for concerts at small venues and cultural centres, where some of the country's finest traditional musicians perform in more formal settings. Music festivals take place in Dublin and around the country throughout the year, offering workshops, sessions and performances. Some pubs and music organisations also run beginner classes in the tin whistle or bodhrán, which can be a fun way to engage with the tradition. Even a short lesson gives you a new appreciation for the skill of the players you hear in the pubs later that night.
Good to know
- Check a pub's session nights in advance; schedules change through the year.
- Arrive early for a seat near the musicians.
- Keep quiet during solo songs, as you would at a concert.