A quiet revolution
Not long ago, food was not high on the list of reasons people visited Dublin. That has changed. A new generation of chefs has embraced the country's superb raw ingredients, including grass-fed beef and lamb, farmhouse cheeses, seaweed and seafood from cold Atlantic waters, and the city's restaurant scene has blossomed as a result.
Many restaurants celebrate local farmers and producers by name on their menus, and seasonal cooking is the norm rather than the exception.
Breakfast and brunch
The full Irish breakfast is still worth having at least once: sausages, rashers, eggs, black and white pudding, grilled tomato, mushrooms and toast or soda bread. It is a serious meal and can keep you going until late afternoon.
Dublin also has a brilliant brunch and bakery culture. Look for sourdough, cinnamon buns and inventive brunch plates in cafés across the city, particularly around Portobello, Stoneybatter and Ranelagh.
Classic dishes
Irish stew, made with lamb or mutton, potatoes and root vegetables, is a hearty pub favourite. Coddle is a distinctly Dublin dish of sausages, bacon and potatoes slow-cooked together, simple and comforting on a cold day.
Seafood is excellent. Try chowder with brown bread, smoked salmon, or oysters with a glass of stout, a classic pairing. Fish and chips from a traditional chipper, eaten from the paper, is another rite of passage.
Markets and food halls
Weekend food markets in various parts of the city offer street food, artisan produce and a sociable atmosphere. Look out for stalls selling Irish cheeses, which range from soft washed-rind varieties to mature cheddars.
If you want to bring something home, Irish butter, cheese, smoked salmon and whiskey are popular choices. Many shops sell vacuum-packed products designed for travel.
Coffee, tea and sweet treats
Ireland is traditionally a tea-drinking nation, and you will be offered a strong cup almost everywhere. Dublin's specialty coffee scene has also grown impressively, with independent roasters and cafés across the city. For something sweet, try a slice of brack, a fruit loaf traditionally associated with Halloween, scones with butter and jam, or a rich chocolate dessert made with Irish stout.
Afternoon tea in one of the grand hotels around St Stephen's Green is a pleasant treat on a cooler day, while the city's bakeries sell freshly made soda bread that pairs perfectly with good Irish butter.
Good to know
- Book popular restaurants ahead, especially at weekends.
- Look for early-evening set menus for good-value dining.
- Pack liquids such as whiskey in checked luggage, not your cabin bag.