Haarlem
Just a short train ride west of Amsterdam, Haarlem feels like a smaller, calmer version of the capital. Its central market square is dominated by the vast Grote Kerk, a Gothic church home to a famous historic organ. Around it, narrow streets are lined with independent shops, almshouse courtyards and cosy restaurants.
Art lovers should visit the museum dedicated to Frans Hals, the Golden Age portrait painter, housed in a former almshouse. Haarlem also makes an easy springboard to the sand dunes and beach at nearby Zandvoort.
Utrecht
Utrecht, about half an hour south by train, is a lively university city with a distinctive double-level canal system. Old wharf cellars sit at water level beneath the streets, and many have been converted into cafés with terraces right beside the water.
Climb the Dom Tower, the tallest church tower in the country, for a view across the city and surrounding countryside. Utrecht's students give it a young, energetic atmosphere, and evenings are fun without the crowds of Amsterdam.
Windmills at Zaanse Schans
If you want to see windmills up close, Zaanse Schans, north of the city, gathers historic working mills and green wooden houses beside the river Zaan. Some mills are open to visitors, and you can see how they were used to grind spices, saw timber or make paint.
It is very popular with tour groups, so go early or late in the day. A quieter alternative is Kinderdijk, near Rotterdam, where a long line of mills stands across the polders, though it takes longer to reach.
Waterland villages
North of Amsterdam, a short bus ride or bike trip away, the Waterland region is a flat landscape of meadows, dykes and small villages. Picturesque harbour towns such as Marken and Volendam show traditional Dutch life on the old inland sea, and Edam is famous for its cheese.
This area is perfect by bicycle on a fine day, though a regional bus is the easiest option if you would rather not pedal.
Further afield
With a little more time, Rotterdam is easily reachable by train. It offers bold modern architecture, a huge market hall with a dramatic painted ceiling and an energetic food scene, all in sharp contrast to Amsterdam's historic canals. Leiden, the university town where Rembrandt was born, is another rewarding stop, with canals, museums and botanical gardens.
Good to know
- Buy train tickets from machines or apps and check in and out at the card readers.
- Avoid peak commuter hours for quieter trains and lower stress.
- Pack a waterproof layer; Dutch weather changes quickly.