Why Cretan food is special
Crete's cooking has long been admired as a model of the Mediterranean diet. It is built on olive oil, vegetables, pulses, wild greens, herbs, cheese, bread and modest amounts of meat and fish. Much of what you eat is produced on the island, often by the family serving it.
Hospitality is central. It's common for a small dessert or a glass of raki to arrive at the end of a meal without being ordered, a gesture of welcome rather than an upsell.
Starters and small plates
Dakos is the island's signature salad: a hard barley rusk topped with grated tomato, crumbled soft cheese, olive oil and oregano. Look also for kalitsounia, small pies filled with soft cheese or greens, and fried snails, a traditional delicacy.
Wild greens, known collectively as horta, are gathered from the hillsides and served boiled with olive oil and lemon. They might sound plain, but they are delicious and a true taste of the countryside.
Mains and slow cooking
Lamb and goat are cooked slowly with herbs, sometimes in clay pots or in wood-fired ovens. Gamopilafo, a rich rice dish traditionally served at weddings, is worth seeking out. On the coast, grilled fish and octopus are staples.
Village tavernas in the hills around Heraklion often have the most traditional menus, and many use produce from their own gardens and animals.
Cheese, honey and olive oil
Crete produces several distinctive cheeses, from soft fresh varieties to hard, aged ones made from sheep and goat milk. Thyme honey from the mountains is intensely aromatic and makes an excellent gift. The island's olive oil is a point of great pride, and visiting a working press or small producer is a rewarding outing.
Heraklion's central market street is a good place to browse local products, from herbs and spices to cheeses, rusks and sweets.
Wine and raki
Wine has been made on Crete since Minoan times, and the vineyards south of Heraklion are among the most important on the island, growing indigenous grapes. Several estates welcome visitors for tastings. Raki, also called tsikoudia, is a clear spirit distilled from grape pomace after the harvest and served in small glasses. Sip it slowly.
Desserts are simple but memorable. Look for loukoumades, small fried dough balls drizzled with honey, and sweet cheese pies dusted with cinnamon and sugar. Bougatsa, a flaky pastry with a creamy filling, is a popular Heraklion breakfast, and some bakeries in the city have been making it for generations.
Good to know
- Say yes to the complimentary raki, but pace yourself.
- Buy honey and olive oil in sealed containers and pack them in a checked bag.
- Visit wineries south of Heraklion with a driver or on a tour.