Costa da Caparica: Lisbon's long Atlantic beach

The other side of the Tagus

While Cascais gets most of the attention, many Lisbon locals prefer to cross the river to Costa da Caparica. On the south bank of the Tagus, it is a seemingly endless stretch of golden sand facing west into the Atlantic, backed by dunes and, further south, by fossil cliffs that are a protected landscape.

The town of Caparica itself is unglamorous, with apartment blocks and a busy main street. The magic lies in the beaches that run south of it for many kilometres, each with its own beach bar and atmosphere.

Surf for beginners

Caparica is one of the most popular places near Lisbon to learn to surf. The waves are often gentle and consistent, and numerous surf schools offer group lessons with boards and wetsuits included. A morning lesson followed by an afternoon lazing on the sand is a classic day here.

Experienced surfers will find bigger waves on certain days and further along the coast, but the area's real strength is how welcoming it is to people who have never stood on a board.

The beach train and southern beaches

In summer, a small narrow-gauge beach train known locally as the Transpraia runs south along the dunes, stopping at a series of beaches. The further you go, the quieter and more natural it gets. Near the end of the line is Fonte da Telha, a laid-back fishing hamlet beneath the cliffs, with simple seafood restaurants.

Some stretches along this coast are known as naturist-friendly, so it is worth being aware of that if you are travelling with children and choose a stop at random.

Getting there

Buses run to Caparica from central Lisbon, and some travellers combine a ferry across the river with a bus on the other side. Traffic over the bridge can be heavy on summer weekends, so leave early or go midweek. A rental car gives you freedom to explore further south to the Arrábida coast.

Sunsets are a highlight here. Because the beach faces west, many visitors stay for an evening drink as the sun drops into the ocean before heading back to the city for dinner.

Pack for a long day: shade is limited on the open sand, and the wind off the ocean can pick up in the afternoon, so a windbreak or a sheltered spot near the dunes is welcome.

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