The wild coast
Costa Brava means rugged coast, and the name fits. North of Barcelona, the Catalan shoreline breaks into rocky headlands, tiny bays and pine woods reaching right down to the water. Despite some large resorts in the south of the region, much of it remains surprisingly unspoilt, especially around the Baix Empordà.
Most of the region is roughly one and a half to two hours from Barcelona by car, and buses connect the main towns.
Tossa de Mar
Tossa de Mar is one of the closest Costa Brava towns to Barcelona and one of the most striking. Its medieval walls and towers stand on a headland above the main beach, and you can wander the old lanes inside them. Small coves in either direction are reachable on foot or by boat.
It does get busy in summer, but a visit in late spring or early autumn shows the town at its best.
Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariu
Around the town of Palafrugell, three seaside villages sit in neighbouring bays. Calella de Palafrugell has whitewashed houses and arches right on the sand, Llafranc has a curved beach and a marina, and Tamariu is the smallest and calmest of the three.
They are linked by the camí de ronda, an old coastal path once used by patrols watching for smugglers. It climbs over headlands, passes through pine trees and drops into coves, and walking a section between two villages is one of the best things to do on the coast.
Begur's hidden bays
The hilltop town of Begur sits above a scattering of small coves such as Aiguablava, Sa Tuna and Sa Riera. The water here is often a remarkable turquoise, and the snorkelling among the rocks is good.
Parking near the coves is limited and access roads are narrow. In high season some areas run shuttle buses or restrict car access, so check locally before setting off.
Making the trip work
A rental car collected in Barcelona makes it easy to visit several coves in a day. Better still, stay a night or two on the coast so you can enjoy the bays in the quiet early morning and evening. You can add a coastal hotel to a Barcelona booking to split your stay between city and sea.
Good to know
- Wear proper shoes for the camí de ronda, which can be rocky.
- Visit coves early to beat the crowds and find parking.
- June and September are ideal for warm water with fewer people.