What is Kölsch?
Kölsch is the local beer of Cologne: a pale, light-bodied, refreshing brew with a gentle bitterness. Strictly speaking, it can only be produced in and around the city, and locals are proud of it. The word also refers to the city's dialect, which tells you how closely the drink is tied to local identity.
It is served in tall, narrow glasses called Stangen, which hold only a small measure. The idea is that each glass stays cold and fresh, and you simply have more of them.
How ordering works
In a traditional brewery tavern, you rarely need to order. Waiters, known as Köbes and recognisable by their blue aprons, circulate with round trays and replace your empty glass automatically. The waiter keeps a tally by marking your beer mat.
When you have had enough, place your beer mat on top of your glass. That is the universal signal to stop. The Köbes are known for their dry humour and brisk style, which is all part of the experience.
What to eat alongside
Tavern menus feature hearty Rhineland food. Look for Himmel und Erde, which means heaven and earth: black pudding with mashed potato and apple sauce. Halve Hahn sounds like half a chicken but is actually a rye roll with a thick slice of aged Gouda, mustard and onions. Pork knuckle, sausages and potato pancakes are also common.
Portions are filling, so sharing is a good idea if you want to try several dishes.
Where to find the taverns
Several of the city's best-known brewery taverns are in the old town, within a few minutes' walk of the cathedral. They tend to be large, with wood-panelled rooms, long tables and a cheerful bustle, especially in the evenings and on match days.
Away from the centre, neighbourhood pubs in districts such as the Belgian Quarter and Ehrenfeld also serve Kölsch in a more local setting. Wherever you go, the rhythm of small glasses and constant refills stays the same.
Some breweries also offer tours or have small shops where you can buy bottles and souvenir glasses to take home. Remember that a full set of glassware adds weight to your luggage, so pack carefully if you are flying with a cabin bag only.
Good to know
- Cover your glass with a beer mat to stop the refills.
- Pay your tab directly to your waiter before leaving.
- Go on a weekday evening for a slightly calmer atmosphere.