The fifth season
In Cologne, carnival is often called the fifth season. It officially opens on 11 November at 11.11 in the morning, but the main street festivities take place in the days before Ash Wednesday, usually in February or early March. During this time the city transforms, with locals in costume, music in every bar and a general sense of joyful chaos.
Because the date depends on the Easter calendar, check the exact days for the year you plan to visit.
Even outside the main days, you will notice carnival culture in Cologne throughout the year, from carnival society meetings to songs that every local seems to know by heart. It is taken surprisingly seriously, with long traditions and elaborate costumes.
Key days
The street carnival begins on the Thursday before Lent, known as Weiberfastnacht, when celebrations start in the morning and continue late into the night. Traditionally, women playfully cut off men's ties on this day, so leave your favourite tie at home.
The highlight is Rose Monday, when a huge parade of floats, bands and marching groups winds through the city for several hours. Participants throw sweets, chocolates and flowers to the crowds, and the call to listen for is Kamelle, the local word for these treats.
Joining in
Wearing a costume is almost obligatory if you want to blend in. It does not need to be elaborate; a colourful wig, face paint or an animal onesie is enough. Shops across the city sell costumes in the weeks before.
Bars and pubs fill up early, and many have queues. Much of the fun happens outdoors in the streets, where strangers sing traditional carnival songs together. Learn the greeting Alaaf, which you will hear constantly.
Practical advice
Hotels book up months ahead and prices rise steeply, so reserve early or consider staying in a nearby city with good rail links. Public transport runs extra services but gets very crowded.
It can be cold and wet in February, so wear warm layers under your costume. Keep valuables secure, pace yourself with drinks, and agree a meeting point with friends in case you get separated.
If crowds are not your thing, consider visiting outside carnival week instead. Cologne is relaxed and welcoming the rest of the year, and the costumes will be the only thing you miss.
Good to know
- Bring a bag to collect sweets thrown from the parade floats.
- Book accommodation as early as possible for carnival week.
- Wear comfortable, waterproof shoes; you will be standing for hours.