A capital by the sea
It's easy to forget on a busy city street, but Dublin wraps around a wide bay with cliffs and beaches to the north and south. The suburban coastal railway runs right along the shore, which means you can be on a clifftop path within an hour of finishing breakfast in the city centre.
These are not remote wilderness walks, but they feel properly wild in places, especially on windy days when the waves crash below and the gulls wheel overhead.
Howth Head
The peninsula of Howth, on the north side of the bay, is the classic choice. Trails loop around the headland from the fishing village, with views back to the city, out to small offshore islands and down to a lighthouse on the rocks. There are different loop lengths, from a gentle couple of hours to a longer route over the heather-covered summit.
Finish in the harbour, where seafood restaurants and fish-and-chip shops cluster near the pier. Seals often pop up hoping for scraps from the fishing boats.
Dalkey, Killiney and Bray to Greystones
On the south side, the area around Dalkey and Killiney Hill has some of the most beautiful views in the region, looking across a sweeping bay that some compare to the Mediterranean on a sunny day. Short paths lead up to the hilltop and down to quiet coves.
Further south, the cliff walk between Bray and Greystones is a popular linear route. It follows the coast high above the railway line, and you can catch the train back at either end. Sections can close for maintenance after erosion, so check before setting out.
Heading further afield
If you have a rental car, the Wicklow Mountains just south of the city add lakes, valleys and upland bog walks. Further up the coast and across the country, Ireland's Atlantic shoreline offers some of the most dramatic sea cliffs in Europe, but you'll want a few days for that.
Whatever route you choose, the walk back into town is part of the fun. Coastal villages around the bay have cosy pubs, cafés and bakeries, and many people make a ritual of a sea swim at one of the traditional bathing spots followed by a hot drink. The water is cold even in summer, so it's a bracing experience, but locals swim all year round. On a clear evening, catching the train back into the city as the light fades over the bay is a lovely way to end the day before heading out for dinner in the centre.
Good to know
- Pack a waterproof jacket in every season; Irish weather changes quickly.
- Cliff paths can be muddy and unfenced, so keep well back from the edge.
- Use the coastal train for linear walks and avoid backtracking.