What is Modernisme?
Modernisme was the Catalan take on the art nouveau style that swept Europe around the turn of the twentieth century. In Barcelona, it coincided with a period of economic growth and a revival of Catalan culture and identity, and wealthy families commissioned architects to build homes, shops and public buildings that were bold, colourful and full of symbolism.
The style uses curving lines, ceramic mosaics, stained glass, wrought iron and motifs drawn from nature and Catalan legend. The most famous architect of the movement is known worldwide, but several of his contemporaries left equally fascinating buildings.
Starting on the Passeig de Gràcia
The broad boulevard of Passeig de Gràcia, in the Eixample district, is the heart of Modernisme. One block is nicknamed the Block of Discord because three highly contrasting houses by different architects stand almost side by side, each trying to outdo the others. A little further up, a wave-like apartment building with a rooftop of strange chimneys is one of the city's icons.
Look down as well as up. Even the paving tiles and streetlamps along this boulevard were designed with care.
The great basilica and the hospital
From the boulevard, walk or take the metro to the city's most famous church, a basilica still under construction more than a century after work began. Its towers, facades and forest-like interior, lit by coloured glass, are unforgettable. Book a timed ticket well in advance.
A short walk away is a former hospital complex with pavilions decorated in tiles, mosaics and sculptures, designed to make patients feel better through beauty. It's often less crowded and makes a peaceful contrast.
Finishing in the old town
Back in the old town near the cathedral, a concert hall built for a Catalan choral society has an extraordinary interior with a stained-glass skylight and sculpted muses emerging from the walls. Attending a concert is the best way to see it. Finish with a drink in a nearby café that has kept its period details.
If you have extra time, a hilltop park with mosaic benches and gingerbread-style pavilions offers views over the whole city and the sea.
Modernisme isn't confined to the famous landmarks. As you walk the grid of the Eixample, look out for ordinary apartment buildings with ornate doorways, wrought-iron balconies, sculpted stone details and decorated hallways glimpsed through open doors. Old pharmacies, bakeries and shops often keep their original tiles, signage and woodwork. Many of these buildings are private homes, so admire them from the street. Spotting these smaller gems turns a simple walk into a treasure hunt and shows how deeply the movement shaped the everyday look of the city, not just its showpieces.
Good to know
- Book the most famous sites online as early as possible; they often sell out.
- Walk the Eixample in the morning, when the light on facades is soft.
- Consider a combined ticket or guided tour if you want to go inside several houses.