Making the most of an Athens stopover on the way to the islands

Why stop at all

Many travellers fly into Athens and head straight to Piraeus or Rafina for a ferry, or catch an onward flight. That is understandable, but a short stopover lets you see the Acropolis, eat well and recover from the journey before island life begins. It also gives you a buffer if your ferry is delayed by weather, which can happen when strong summer winds blow across the Aegean.

One night is enough for the highlights; two lets you settle into the city's rhythm.

If you have twenty-four hours

Arrive, drop your bags at a hotel near Syntagma, Plaka or Koukaki and walk the pedestrian avenue that circles the Acropolis. In the late afternoon, visit the Acropolis Museum, then climb Filopappou Hill or find a rooftop bar for sunset views of the Parthenon.

The following morning, take the first available slot to visit the Acropolis itself, before the heat and the crowds. After an early lunch of souvlaki in Monastiraki, take the metro to Piraeus for an afternoon ferry.

If your flight lands in the evening, keep the first night simple: a short walk through Plaka, a taverna dinner and an early night, so you are fresh for the morning slot at the Acropolis. The city is at its most pleasant in the cool early hours, when the streets are being swept and cafes are just opening.

If you have forty-eight hours

With an extra day, add the Ancient Agora and the National Archaeological Museum, which holds an extraordinary collection of Greek art, including gold from Mycenae and bronze statues recovered from the sea. In the evening, explore Psyrri or Pangrati for dinner.

Alternatively, use the second afternoon for a trip to Cape Sounion for sunset, or a swim on the Athens Riviera, which is a good way to start your beach holiday early.

Practicalities

Athens airport connects to the centre by metro and suburban rail, and the metro also reaches the port of Piraeus. Ferries from Piraeus serve the Cyclades, the Saronic islands and Crete, while Rafina, east of the city, is convenient for some Cycladic routes. Buy ferry tickets in advance in high season.

If you are heading to Crete, AeroVista also flies to HER Heraklion, so you can compare a ferry with a flight. Many hotels will store luggage after check-out, so you can explore light on your departure day, and the metro to Piraeus is manageable even with a large suitcase outside rush hour.

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