Canals, courtyards and cafés: a walk through the Jordaan

From working-class quarter to city favourite

The Jordaan began life in the seventeenth century as a crowded district for workers and immigrants, built just outside the grand canal ring. Its streets are narrower, its canals smaller and its houses more modest than those of the wealthy merchants nearby. Today it is one of the most sought-after places to live in the city, full of independent shops, galleries and cosy bars, yet it has kept a village-like intimacy.

There is no single must-see sight here. The pleasure is in drifting along the canals, peering into houseboats and stopping whenever a café looks inviting.

Hidden courtyards

One of the Jordaan's secrets is its hofjes, almshouses built around quiet inner gardens, originally to house elderly or widowed women. Behind an unassuming door, you may find a tranquil courtyard with flower beds and a pump, completely cut off from the street noise.

Several are open to respectful visitors during the day. Residents still live in them, so keep your voice down, do not photograph people's windows and close the door gently on your way out.

Markets and shops

The Noordermarkt, beside a seventeenth-century church at the northern edge of the neighbourhood, hosts a well-loved organic farmers' market on Saturdays and a flea and textile market on Mondays. On market days, the area buzzes with shoppers picking up bread, cheese and flowers.

Nearby, the Westerstraat and the cross streets known as the Negen Straatjes, the Nine Little Streets, are lined with vintage shops, design boutiques, cheese shops and bakeries. The latter technically sit just outside the Jordaan, in the canal ring, but they make a natural extension of the walk.

Ending at the Westerkerk

Finish near the Westerkerk, whose tall tower is a landmark of the western canal belt. Its bells ring across the neighbourhood, and the tower can typically be climbed on guided visits in the warmer months for a fine view over the rooftops.

The Anne Frank House is just around the corner, and visiting it is a powerful, sobering experience. Tickets are sold online in time slots and are often snapped up well in advance, so book as early as you can if it is on your list.

Where to pause

Part of the Jordaan's charm is its many places to rest. Corner brown cafés serve coffee in the morning and beer later, small bakeries sell apple pie and fresh bread, and benches along the canals invite you to sit and watch the boats. In fine weather, buy a few treats from the market and enjoy an impromptu picnic by the water.

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