Herring, stroopwafels and Indonesian feasts: eating your way through Amsterdam

Snack culture

Dutch food is rarely about long, elaborate dinners; it shines in snacks. At street stalls you will find raw herring, lightly cured and served with chopped onions and pickles, either held by the tail and lowered into your mouth or tucked into a soft bun. It is especially prized early in the season, when the new catch arrives.

Then there are bitterballen, crisp deep-fried balls of creamy ragout traditionally served with mustard alongside a beer, and kroketten, their larger cousins. Look out also for poffertjes, tiny fluffy pancakes dusted with powdered sugar, and fries served in a paper cone with a choice of sauces, with mayonnaise the classic.

Cheese and sweets

Cheese shops all over the city sell wheels of Gouda and Edam at different ages, from soft and mild to crumbly, crystalline and deeply savoury. Many offer tastings, and aged cheese travels well if you want to take some home.

For sweets, a warm stroopwafel, two thin waffles glued together with caramel syrup, is irresistible, particularly fresh from a market stall. Apple pie, often tall and generously spiced, is a café staple best enjoyed with whipped cream.

A taste of Indonesia and beyond

The Netherlands' colonial history has left a lasting mark on its food. Indonesian and Surinamese restaurants are an essential part of eating in Amsterdam. A rijsttafel, or rice table, is a feast of many small dishes, from spicy sambals to satay and slow-cooked curries, served together with rice. It is a great meal to share with a group.

Surinamese sandwich shops serve filling rolls with roast pork, chicken or spiced long beans, a fantastic budget lunch.

Markets and food halls

The Albert Cuyp Market in De Pijp runs most days except Sundays and is a lively mix of produce, clothes and food stalls. It is the place for fresh stroopwafels and a herring on the go. In Oud-West, a converted former tram depot houses a popular indoor food hall with dozens of stalls under one roof.

In the Jordaan, the Saturday farmers' market is ideal for picnic supplies: fresh bread, cheese, fruit and a bunch of tulips to brighten your hotel room.

Coffee and cafés

Amsterdam has a thriving specialty coffee scene. Small roasters and cafés serve excellent espresso and filter coffee in bright, minimalist spaces. Note that a coffeeshop in Amsterdam is something quite different, so look for a café if you simply want a cup of coffee and a slice of cake.

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