What makes a brown café
A bruin café is the Dutch equivalent of a classic neighbourhood pub. The name comes from the dark wooden interiors and walls that, in the days of indoor smoking, were stained brown by decades of tobacco. Many have been serving drinks in the same spot for generations.
Expect creaking floorboards, oriental rugs on the tables, candles in old bottles and a resident cat or dog. There is no music to speak of, just the hum of conversation, and the atmosphere is welcoming whether you come alone or in a group.
What to order
Beer is the default. Ask for a biertje and you will get a small glass of Dutch lager with a tall foam head, scraped level with a spatula. Belgian ales and local craft beers are often available too.
For something more traditional, try jenever, the Dutch juniper spirit that is the ancestor of gin. It comes in young and old styles and is traditionally served in a tulip-shaped glass filled to the brim, so full that you lean down and take the first sip without lifting it. Pair it with a plate of bitterballen.
Tasting houses
Related to brown cafés are proeflokalen, or tasting rooms, run historically by distillers to let customers sample their spirits and liqueurs. A few survive in the old centre with shelves full of colourful bottles and barrels behind the bar.
They are usually tiny and standing room only, but they offer a glimpse of a drinking culture that dates back centuries.
Finding the best ones
The Jordaan has the greatest concentration of brown cafés, many on street corners overlooking a canal. In summer, tables appear outside along the water. On cold evenings, the steamy windows and warm glow inside are hard to resist.
Brown cafés are about lingering. Order a drink, find a corner and settle in. Locals might chat, play cards or read the newspaper, and nobody will rush you out.
Brown café manners
There are few rules, but it helps to know a couple. Groups often take turns buying rounds, it is fine to sit at the bar and chat with the staff, and in the busiest hours you may need to share a table. Keep an eye out for daily specials; many brown cafés serve simple meals such as soups, sandwiches and the famous Dutch pea soup in winter. A quiet weekday afternoon is the best time to soak up the atmosphere.
Good to know
- Pay at the bar or the table as the regulars do; table service is common.
- Some old cafés are cash or card only, so check before ordering.
- Ask for jenever by its age; jonge is lighter, oude is richer and maltier.