A different Algarve
In summer, the Algarve is all about busy beaches and lively resorts. Visit between November and March and you'll find a quieter, more local region, where fishing towns go about their business, cafés are full of residents and long sandy beaches are almost empty.
The climate is one of the mildest in mainland Europe. Days are often sunny with comfortable temperatures for walking, though evenings get cool and rainy spells do happen.
Faro itself
Many travellers pass straight through Faro, but the city repays a day or two. Its walled old town has cobbled lanes, a cathedral with views from the tower and storks nesting on rooftops. The harbour faces the Ria Formosa lagoon, a protected area of marshes, channels and sandy barrier islands.
Boat trips from Faro and nearby towns cross the lagoon to the islands, where you can walk along deserted beaches. Birdwatchers will find flamingos, waders and many other species, especially in winter.
Walking and cycling
Winter is ideal for exploring on foot or by bike. The coastal paths between dramatic rock formations and sea caves on the central Algarve are far more pleasant without summer heat. Inland, the hills behind the coast hide whitewashed villages, cork oak forests and quiet roads.
A long-distance walking trail crosses the region from east to west through the hills, and many shorter circular routes start from inland villages. A long cycling route also runs close to the coast.
Food and towns
Seafood is excellent all year. Try cataplana, a stew of fish or shellfish cooked in a sealed copper pan, grilled sardines where available, or clams with garlic and coriander. Inland, look for hearty stews, local honey and sweets made with figs, almonds and carob.
Towns such as Tavira, Olhão and Lagos keep plenty of restaurants and markets open in winter. Olhão's waterfront market halls are especially lively on Saturday mornings.
Getting around
A rental car from Faro gives the most freedom, especially for reaching beaches, viewpoints and inland villages. Trains and buses link the main coastal towns if you'd rather not drive. If you're bringing golf clubs or a bike, sports equipment can be added online for €45 per item.
The quieter season also suits slow travel. Spend a few nights in one town rather than moving every day, take a morning walk along the beach, linger over lunch and watch the sunset from a clifftop. Many long-stay visitors return to the same village every winter for exactly that rhythm.
Good to know
- Bring a warm layer for evenings; many older houses lack strong heating.
- Check that seasonal restaurants and boat trips are running before planning around them.
- Late January and February can bring almond blossom inland.