Day one: Alfama and the castle
Start early in Alfama, the oldest neighbourhood in the city, before the day-trippers arrive. The streets are a tangle of staircases and alleys, so put the map away and walk uphill until you reach the walls of São Jorge Castle.
From the castle terraces you can see the whole city: the red roofs, the river Tagus and the 25 de Abril bridge. Come back down via the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, where tiled benches look out over the water.
Afternoon: Baixa and Chiado
The flat grid of Baixa was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake, and it makes an easy afternoon stroll down to Praça do Comércio on the waterfront. Head up into Chiado for bookshops, cafés and a glass of vinho verde on a terrace.
Day two: Belém
Take the tram or a riverside bike path west to Belém. The Jerónimos Monastery and Belém Tower are both worth the queue, but the real reason to come is the custard tarts, served warm with cinnamon and powdered sugar.
End the weekend at LX Factory, a converted industrial site full of design shops and restaurants, before catching sunset from the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte.
Good to know
- Buy a rechargeable transport card at the airport metro station.
- Wear shoes with grip. The polished stone pavements get slippery.
- Many museums are free on Sunday mornings for residents, so expect crowds.